Crappie Fishing Lures

If you are ready to step up your fishing you will usually catch more fish using artificial baits rather then using live bait. Of course this statement is based on knowing what artificial lures to use. When you are fishing for pan fish smaller is better. Look for lures in the 1/4oz or smaller size.

List of pan fish fishing lures to use:

• Curly Tail Jigs
• Marabou Jigs
• Weedless Spinners, (they have a jig attached) smallest you can find
• Willow Leaf Blades: Silver Colorado Or Gold Blades

The above listed lures can be bought at any department store, bait shop, or online . Most of these artificial baits can be purchased for very little. Make sure when comparing prices that you compare prices for artificial baits in the 1/4oz or smaller range.

Suggested ways to use these crappie fishing lures:

When fishing a curly tail Jig, use a uniquely designed jig head with screw lock from Cabella's. It takes your bait to the bottom where the big ones are. It allows you to thread a plastic tube, or split tail onto the corkscrew and hook it through the tail. The innovative flat-bottom jig head helps the hook stand up at a 60deg angle. Your hooked bait stands up straight off the bottom and is free to move about. I recommend you use purchase and use a Karlins Lunker Curly Tail. This jig is a good choice to use when using a slip bobber rig.

When fishing Marabou jigs use the 1/8oz or 1/4oz size. A good way to fish this lure is use a slip bobber , place a split on the line so the jig falls to a set depth.

When fishing Weedless Spinner baits use the 1/16oz size . Use this bait when fishing low water visibility muddy or murky water.

When fishing the Willow Leaf Blade jigs, fish the lure very slow, again I repeat slow. If you use the 1/16oz jig, the hook will bend before you loose your jig, you can use over and over again. The larger sizes work well but they break the line when snagging. Also , put on a Karlins plastic tube Curly split tail 2" in length.

There are no guarantees that you will catch crappie with the lures shown above, but if you stick with purchasing small crappie fishing lures you up your chances of catching a good batch of crappie.

Well, good luck and good fishing!

Mark Fleagle is the owner of oldfishinghole.com Mark Is a dedicated fisherman with 30+ years of experience and has published numerous articles on fishing. He offers free fishing information and "how to articles at his websites. Visit his site at oldfishinghole.com and download a free copy of his "78 fishing discoveries unleashed". You can also contact him his e-mail address admin@oldfishinghole.com

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By Mark Fleagle

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Selecting Sunblock For Your Fishing Vacation

No fishing vacation should ever be ruined by sunburn or sunstroke. No matter what the weather conditions are, exposure to the suns ultra violet rays can cause serious problems for anglers. The key is to be familiar with the sunblock products that are available and to know what kind of weather conditions you will encounter on your fishing trip.

Many people still get sunblock and suntan lotion confused. Sunblock is designed to actually block the suns harmful rays. This means that if you use sunblock, you will not be working on your tan. Save the tanning for another day. Instead work on having a safe fishing adventure.

For most outdoor activities a sunblock with a rating of SPF 30 or higher is recommended. SPF 15 will give you minimum exposure, but most fishermen will be out in the sun for an extended period of time and therefore should use a SPF 30 or higher rating.

Check the label to see which of the suns rays are blocked. There are two types of sunrays to consider. There are UVA and UVB rays and both can be harmful to your skin. Purchasing a sunblock that blocks both of these rays will of course give you maximum protection. The SPF rating refers to the UVB rays, so you will be looking specifically for mention of the UVA rays.

Another important thing to consider is whether your sunblock is sweatproof or waterproof. I would highly recommend you purchase a sunblock that is sweatproof, especially if your fishing vacation will entail much physical activity like walking streams or using a fishing charter. You won't know your protection has sweated away until it is to late, so take the extra precaution in a block that won't wash away easily.

Lastly I would recommend choosing the spray-on sunblock versus the traditional creams or lotions. It tends to be less messy and more importantly you won't get a large amount on your fingers and hands. This means less transfer of the sunblock to your fishing bait, spinning lure, or fishing flies. Keep in mind that fish have not been known to eat sunblock for breakfast, lunch or dinner.

Your fishing vacation can be more enjoyable when you take the time to purchase and use a good sunblock. Also consider a light long sleeve shirt and wide brimmed hat for extra protection. In combination, these items will keep your fishing trip free of nasty sunburns.

Fishing vacations can be best enjoyed when the proper sun blocking precautions are used. This is especially true when you are spending much time on the water, like with a fishing charter. More fishing vacation information is available at http://www.thefishingbobber.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Dean_Carl

By Dean Carl

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Carp Fishing - Chumming for Carp

Chumming is when you throw bait into the water to draw them to your bait. Many experienced carp anglers already understand the importance of chumming to catch more carp. While chumming is not legal in some states, it is legal in most and it can be very effective. Before you start chumming, make sure to check your state's fishing regulations.

There are many different baits to use for carp fishing, but most anglers in the United States prefer using corn while most anglers in the U.K. prefer using boilies. You can chum with the same bait that you are planning on using for bait or you can chum with many different baits.

I have seen people chum for carp with dough balls, boilies, corn, bread and dog food. I can't think of any other baits to chum with, but I am sure there are plenty of others to use. I personally prefer using corn to chum because I catch carp with corn. I think it is a smart idea to chum with the same bait because carp will enter the area and they will start eating the food that you laid out for them. If you chummed with corn, they might eat 10 to 12 kernels or more before they see your bait and pick it up. Your bait now becomes just another kernel of corn for them to eat. It just makes sense and it does work. You can definitely chum with corn and fish with boilies, dough balls, or nightcrawlers if you want.

There have been times that I chummed with corn and I fished with very big doughballs. The theory behind this is to hopefully catch a big fish with a big bait. Through my experience, corn mixed with a little vanilla extract gets a lot more bites though.

So, now that you know that chumming works, let's talk about a few tips that will help you chum more effectively. If you are fishing a new lake, pond or even a new area on a body of water, I prefer chumming a lot. I recommend using half a can to a full can of corn before you cast your lines out. There is a strategy to this though. I try to chum in a straight line along the shoreline or from shallow to deep, but I keep it a straight line. Then, I put a lot more in a smaller circle, which is where I will cast my lines. The goal is to get them to follow the trail of corn to get to the pot of gold basically. When they get to the big circle of food, they will hopefully stay long enough to take my bait.

If I am fishing a spot that has a lot of fish or a spot that I have chummed regularly, I only chum in the exact spot that I fish and I only throw a couple of handfuls. If they are in the area, they will find my chum, but the goal is to overfeeding them. I want them to take my bait. For more information on carp, take a look at our carp fishing page.

Article provided by Kevin Sewell at Ultimate Fishing Site

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By Kevin Sewell

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Glow Fishing Lures Catch More Fish

Learn how glowing lures are simply catching more fish.
The foundational art of fishing will forever be the same but these days some fishermen are using new methods and equipment to reel in more fish. Advanced technology has improved traditional equipment markedly over the last number of years. Rods, reels, lures, and any other type of equipment is steadily improving making it easier for fishermen to catch more fish. One improvement that has proven itself advantageous is the glowing lure.

The secret behind a glowing lure is the light it is able to produce underneath the water. There are two types of glowing lures: those with photoluminescence, like a glow in the dark stick, and those with fluorescent pigments. Many fishermen are claiming great results with these lures from the attractiveness a glow type lure creates. Catching fish is exciting, so when casting out, everyone likes to have every advantage possible in order to be the fish's choice for a snack.

Why does a glowing lure produce better light than any of the colorful lures already in your tackle box you ask? Well, the answer lies in the basic principles of light. The colors that we see, regardless of the object, is the reflection of the sun's visible light rays. Thus, when we are looking at a red lure, the lure's pigments are absorbing all wavelengths except the red portion of the light spectrum. How does this apply to fishing? Well, the sun's rays are mostly reflected off of the surface of the water. The rays that are able to penetrate water diminish quickly and are sparse at regular fishing depths. Therefore, instead of a typical flashy lure at the surface, you are in reality fishing with a grey lure deep in the water; not a very attractive meal to most fish. The good news is that glowing lures are able to capitalize on the minimal light available to them by using ultraviolet light.

Lures that have been painted with photo luminescent paint are able to produce good contrast and bright flashes with a minimal amount of visible light. In fact, the photo luminescent paint is only seen in lower light conditions. In the boat these types of lures are not noticed, but under water they thrive because of the very low light conditions. The best glowing lures also have fluorescent pigments mixed into them when they are manufactured. This technique is used to produce flashes of color in higher light conditions. Thus, any way the light shines, a good glowing lure is going to be doing just that: glowing!

Fish are always on the look out for food that stands out or looks vulnerable. As previously mentioned many normal lures lose their color under water and become grey. This tends to blend in with the darker underwater conditions making that lure somewhat ineffective. However, glowing lures capitalize on low light conditions and tend to stand out and say, "Bite Me!" The bright oranges, blues, violets, yellows, and even greens create a huge contrast between the lure and its surroundings. This helps a fish take notice, and entices it to attack. In fact, many fish species have eyes that select these colors when searching for prey.

The bright colors and ability to stand out under water in dark conditions make glowing lures advantageous over a traditional lure. Those fishermen who have tried glowing lures tend to agree that they plain catch more fish.

John Packer is an avid fisherman and recommends GoFishin.com for all your fishing tackle needs based on their wide selection, super discount prices, and great service. Sign up for the newsletter and get weekly specials on fishing poles and various fishing equipment to fill up your tackle box and have the right equipment to catch more fish.
By rob tendick
Published: 12/2/2006

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How to make custom fly fishing leaders

The fly fishing leader is a vital connection between fly line and the fly. The fly leader must be properly constructed for each fly fishing condition to present the fly to the strike zone in an effective manor
A properly designed and well-made fly leader serves as a vital connection between the fly line and the fly. When fly-casting, the energy of the fly line is transferred through a tapered leader to turn the fly over in a presentable manor into the strike zone. Of course, the long fly leader also keeps the fish from seeing that there is a fly attached to the fly line.

In the modern world of fly-fishing, there is a need for specialized weights and lengths of fly leaders for the wide variety of fish species that are now being sought. For example, if you are dry-fly fishing a clear lake on a calm day, you may want to have a very long leader; one that is perhaps 12 to 16 feet long with a very fine tippet that does not scare off feeding fish. However, if you are fishing a river or a lake near the bottom, using a sink-tip line or sinking fly line with a nymph or streamer, you may need a 5 to 6 foot leader that will help to hold the fly down longer in the strike zone. Dry fly fishing rivers for trout usually requires a 9-foot leader with a soft mono tippet section and a soft mono tippet. Dry line, or grease-line steelhead fishing requires a stiff butt section, and stiff tippet section, to help turn over larger steelhead flies. Most saltwater fly-fishing requires special, hard stiff monofilament, leaders that are designed to turn over salt-water flies in very hot and humid climates where abrasive sand and warm salt-water conditions exist.

There are many leader formulas to be found in the fly-fishing community, and the following is one that was given to me by my friend Mr. Ramón Aranguren, a past Argentinean fly-casting champion. I have used this leader formula over the years, and it has also worked well for many of my fly fishing associates. This leader has a long stiff butt section that will turn over those big bushy dry flies, weighted nymphs, steelhead flies, and will help you to drive a fly into the wind. I call it the 60/40 and here are a couple formula variations of it for different fly-fishing situations.

First, take a piece of notebook paper and draw an 8-inch line. This will be used for writing down your marks and figures for the layout of the 60/40 tapered fly-leader and should be saved for future reference. Starting from left to right at the 5" point or about 60 %, make a short vertical line that is above and below line. Therefore, everything to the left of this vertical line will be the butt section or 60 percent and everything to the right of the vertical line will be the tippet section or 40 percent of the 8" line.

Lets say you want to make a 9 ft. leader or 108": Take 60 % of 108 and you get about 65", that is how long the butt section will be, so write 65" above the 8" line and left of the vertical line on the paper. The butt section will consist of two sections. Take 60 % of 65" and you get 39"; this is the length of the first butt section, which will be, .019" diameter leader material. Make a short vertical line below the 8" line to separate these two sections. The second section is 65 minus 39 or 26" of, .018" diameter leader material. Write down these figures under the line on your paper for the 1st and 2nd butt sections.

The tippet section is also broken down into the 60/40 formulas: Subtract 65 from 108 and you get 43". This is the tippet section; so write 43 above the line on the right side of the vertical mark on your paper; this is 40 % of the line. Now take 60 % of 43 and you get approximately 27", which is the length of the first section of the tippet section. Mark this with a short vertical line below the 8" line. The first section will be divided into three 9" pieces of leader material .015" diameter, .014" diameter and .012" diameter. Write in these figures under the 8" line for reference. The second section is the tippet, which will be 17" of .010" diameter Write these figures under the 8" line. If needed, you can add extra length to the tippet, or tie on an additional 20" of a smaller size tippet if so desired.

If you need a leader that will present a smaller fly very nicely, here is variation of the 60/40: Draw out the 8" line on your paper but this time, make your vertical mark at the halfway point.

In this example we will make a 10 foot or 120" leader. Therefore, each half will be 60", write this figure on each side of the vertical mark above the line. Now, the 60/40 for the butt section: 60 % of 60" for the 1st section will be 36" of, .019" diameter leader material. The 2nd section or 40 % will be 24" of, .018" diameter leader material, write these figures under the 8"line for reference.

The tippet section will be slightly different; divide it into the 60/40. The first section of the tippet section or 36’ will be divided into three segments: one 12" of .014" diameter, one 12" of .012" diameter and one 12" of 010" diameter leader material: these are the three segments of the 1st tippet section. Mark and write these figures under the 8" line on the paper. The tippet will be 24" of.009", mark and write these figures under the 8" line on your paper.

Now that you have some leader formulas, what is next? The rule of thumb for making a leader is that the first section of the butt section should not be any stiffer than the end of the fly line. Don’t put a 40-lb butt section on a 4 or 5 wt. fly line; it will not turn over properly. However, a 40-lb butt section would most likely work on a 9 or 10 wt. fly line. Your goal is to make a tapered leader that will smoothly and effectively transfer the energy of the fly line to turn over the fly.

Select the sizes of leader material you will need depending on the number of sections in the leader and tippet size for your type of fishing. Try a discount sporting goods store for bulk spools of the heavier monofilament in different sizes and colors and your local fly shop for a wide range of sizes and types of tippet materials that you will need to make your own custom leaders.

There are many different types of knots that can be used to connect the leader sections together, but perhaps the most popular is the blood knot. It is quick and easy to tie, and you will not waste a lot of material tying the knot.

If you are going to use fluorocarbon leader material for your leaders or tippets you may find that the triple surgeon’s knot will give you better knot strength than the blood knot. I also recommend using the Double Uni knot to tie fluorocarbon tippets to your fly.

Use a nail knot to make the connection between fly line and the leader butt section. If you want to make a loop-to-loop connection, cut the 1st. butt section about 8" below the nail knot and tie a perfection loop knot in both cut ends and loop them together. This will give the angler an easy way to change leaders or replace broken or damaged leaders quickly while on the water.

The following is a list of leader material breaking strength and thickness in thousandths of an inch, because each manufacture’s product varies, these values are only approximate: 4lb.= .005", 6lb.= .009", 8lb.= .010", 10lb.= .012", 14lb.= .014", 15lb.= .015", 20lb.= .018", 25lb.= .019", 30lb.= .020"

By Stanley Stanton Published: 2/17/2007

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