How to make custom fly fishing leaders

The fly fishing leader is a vital connection between fly line and the fly. The fly leader must be properly constructed for each fly fishing condition to present the fly to the strike zone in an effective manor
A properly designed and well-made fly leader serves as a vital connection between the fly line and the fly. When fly-casting, the energy of the fly line is transferred through a tapered leader to turn the fly over in a presentable manor into the strike zone. Of course, the long fly leader also keeps the fish from seeing that there is a fly attached to the fly line.

In the modern world of fly-fishing, there is a need for specialized weights and lengths of fly leaders for the wide variety of fish species that are now being sought. For example, if you are dry-fly fishing a clear lake on a calm day, you may want to have a very long leader; one that is perhaps 12 to 16 feet long with a very fine tippet that does not scare off feeding fish. However, if you are fishing a river or a lake near the bottom, using a sink-tip line or sinking fly line with a nymph or streamer, you may need a 5 to 6 foot leader that will help to hold the fly down longer in the strike zone. Dry fly fishing rivers for trout usually requires a 9-foot leader with a soft mono tippet section and a soft mono tippet. Dry line, or grease-line steelhead fishing requires a stiff butt section, and stiff tippet section, to help turn over larger steelhead flies. Most saltwater fly-fishing requires special, hard stiff monofilament, leaders that are designed to turn over salt-water flies in very hot and humid climates where abrasive sand and warm salt-water conditions exist.

There are many leader formulas to be found in the fly-fishing community, and the following is one that was given to me by my friend Mr. Ramón Aranguren, a past Argentinean fly-casting champion. I have used this leader formula over the years, and it has also worked well for many of my fly fishing associates. This leader has a long stiff butt section that will turn over those big bushy dry flies, weighted nymphs, steelhead flies, and will help you to drive a fly into the wind. I call it the 60/40 and here are a couple formula variations of it for different fly-fishing situations.

First, take a piece of notebook paper and draw an 8-inch line. This will be used for writing down your marks and figures for the layout of the 60/40 tapered fly-leader and should be saved for future reference. Starting from left to right at the 5" point or about 60 %, make a short vertical line that is above and below line. Therefore, everything to the left of this vertical line will be the butt section or 60 percent and everything to the right of the vertical line will be the tippet section or 40 percent of the 8" line.

Lets say you want to make a 9 ft. leader or 108": Take 60 % of 108 and you get about 65", that is how long the butt section will be, so write 65" above the 8" line and left of the vertical line on the paper. The butt section will consist of two sections. Take 60 % of 65" and you get 39"; this is the length of the first butt section, which will be, .019" diameter leader material. Make a short vertical line below the 8" line to separate these two sections. The second section is 65 minus 39 or 26" of, .018" diameter leader material. Write down these figures under the line on your paper for the 1st and 2nd butt sections.

The tippet section is also broken down into the 60/40 formulas: Subtract 65 from 108 and you get 43". This is the tippet section; so write 43 above the line on the right side of the vertical mark on your paper; this is 40 % of the line. Now take 60 % of 43 and you get approximately 27", which is the length of the first section of the tippet section. Mark this with a short vertical line below the 8" line. The first section will be divided into three 9" pieces of leader material .015" diameter, .014" diameter and .012" diameter. Write in these figures under the 8" line for reference. The second section is the tippet, which will be 17" of .010" diameter Write these figures under the 8" line. If needed, you can add extra length to the tippet, or tie on an additional 20" of a smaller size tippet if so desired.

If you need a leader that will present a smaller fly very nicely, here is variation of the 60/40: Draw out the 8" line on your paper but this time, make your vertical mark at the halfway point.

In this example we will make a 10 foot or 120" leader. Therefore, each half will be 60", write this figure on each side of the vertical mark above the line. Now, the 60/40 for the butt section: 60 % of 60" for the 1st section will be 36" of, .019" diameter leader material. The 2nd section or 40 % will be 24" of, .018" diameter leader material, write these figures under the 8"line for reference.

The tippet section will be slightly different; divide it into the 60/40. The first section of the tippet section or 36’ will be divided into three segments: one 12" of .014" diameter, one 12" of .012" diameter and one 12" of 010" diameter leader material: these are the three segments of the 1st tippet section. Mark and write these figures under the 8" line on the paper. The tippet will be 24" of.009", mark and write these figures under the 8" line on your paper.

Now that you have some leader formulas, what is next? The rule of thumb for making a leader is that the first section of the butt section should not be any stiffer than the end of the fly line. Don’t put a 40-lb butt section on a 4 or 5 wt. fly line; it will not turn over properly. However, a 40-lb butt section would most likely work on a 9 or 10 wt. fly line. Your goal is to make a tapered leader that will smoothly and effectively transfer the energy of the fly line to turn over the fly.

Select the sizes of leader material you will need depending on the number of sections in the leader and tippet size for your type of fishing. Try a discount sporting goods store for bulk spools of the heavier monofilament in different sizes and colors and your local fly shop for a wide range of sizes and types of tippet materials that you will need to make your own custom leaders.

There are many different types of knots that can be used to connect the leader sections together, but perhaps the most popular is the blood knot. It is quick and easy to tie, and you will not waste a lot of material tying the knot.

If you are going to use fluorocarbon leader material for your leaders or tippets you may find that the triple surgeon’s knot will give you better knot strength than the blood knot. I also recommend using the Double Uni knot to tie fluorocarbon tippets to your fly.

Use a nail knot to make the connection between fly line and the leader butt section. If you want to make a loop-to-loop connection, cut the 1st. butt section about 8" below the nail knot and tie a perfection loop knot in both cut ends and loop them together. This will give the angler an easy way to change leaders or replace broken or damaged leaders quickly while on the water.

The following is a list of leader material breaking strength and thickness in thousandths of an inch, because each manufacture’s product varies, these values are only approximate: 4lb.= .005", 6lb.= .009", 8lb.= .010", 10lb.= .012", 14lb.= .014", 15lb.= .015", 20lb.= .018", 25lb.= .019", 30lb.= .020"

By Stanley Stanton Published: 2/17/2007

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Fly Fishing For Beginners - How to fly fish

Fly fishing is a fascinating sport. Here are a few pointers for fly fishing beginners.
Fly fishing as a hobby has been growing in popularity by the day. Anybody can learn the techniques of fly fishing, regardless of their age. In fact, fly fishing has been around for a long time. According to historians, there are records of it dating back to the 2nd century AD, in Mesopotamia, a region which lies between the Tigris and Euphrates, a part of which is now known as Iraq. Rooster feathers were used to make the flies which were cast using a pole measuring six foot in length and a line about as long. Fly fishing today has not changed very much basically, although, of course, there has been progress in terms of the materials that the rods, lines and flies are made of.

So what is so unique about fly fishing, you might well ask. No, it is not about catching flying fish and neither is it about catching flies! When you fly fish, in contrast to other types of fishing, you do not use any bait that is organic, whether dead or live. Instead, artificial flies, such as string, ribbon, feathers, hair, etc., are used as lure to catch fish. First, the fly fisherman attaches the artificial flies to the hook and line. Then he/she casts the line into the water and shakes the fly in jerky movements on or just above the water's surface, making the fly mimic the movements of an insect. The first and most important factor, if you want to learn to fly fish, is knowing the different kinds of artificial baits that are used.

Another distinguishing aspect of fly fishing that differentiates it from other types of fishing is the way in which the line is cast. While in other types of fishing you need to cast the line and rely on the bait to attract fish, in fly fishing you will need far more expertise in order to lure the fish. It needs a lot of skill to cast the line and mimic insects, skimming just the top of the water, even sometimes dipping it under the water's surface, and then finally managing to entice a fish to take a bite at it. And this is also a major part of why fly fishing is so engrossing and such fun.
The fishing rod is the most important tool for fly fishers, as this is what is used to cast the fly line and then to control it. In the beginning, it is recommended to use a hollow fiber glass rod instead of a bamboo rod. Fiberglass rods are lighter and far more flexible, and require less maintenance. Plus, they are relatively cheaper and do not need to be stored as carefully as bamboo rods. Once you gain in experience, you could switch to a graphite rod. Not only is a graphite rod stronger, but being thinner and lighter it is far more maneuverable, hence the line can be cast far more swiftly and much further away.

Usually, fly fishing rods are longer than the usual fishing rods. The reel is also fairly simple, as it is usually used only to recover the hook and the lure – perhaps with a fish caught at the end of it! Before they cast the line, fly fishermen generally loosen it, pulling some of it from the reel, to create slack. This helps in casting the lure freely to the area the fisherman has targeted.

The fishing line used in fly fishing is also quite different compared to those used in normal fishing. The fly fishing line is larger in diameter and is therefore completely visible. Some of them are designed to float on the surface of the water, while others sink under the surface. A tippet is attached at the fly line’s end, which is what actually does the fishing. This is about 6 feet in length with the lure being tied to the end of the fly line. This contraption is the reason the fish are unable to catch sight of the fly line and fools them into thinking that it is a real insect that they are seeing.

The next thing that fly fishing beginners need to familiarize themselves with is the lure. While it is true that the lure is supposed to mimic insects like flies, but these days, they have become much more specialized. With the evolution of this sport, fly fishing buffs now are going in for lures that mime the exact prey of the fish they set out to catch. Hence, once you learn the basics of casting and using the lure, in order to refine your skill even further, it would be helpful to learn about the specific feeding habits and baits of a variety of species of fish. The main kinds of flies that you will find in a shop dealing with fly fishing gear are emerging bugs and dry flies, wet flies, streamers, nymphs, saltwater flies, panfish and bass flies, and steelhead and salmon flies. However, modifications can be made to the basic flies according to any kind of fish, and there can be nearly endless combinations and color patterns that can be designed.

As is quite evident, fly fishing is a fascinating sport. They best way to gain expertise in it is to seek instructions from an experienced master. He/she will not only tell you more about lures, reels, rods and lines, but also give you information about the best spots for fly fishing.
By Rita Putatunda
Published: 9/12/2007

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Ice Fishing: Great Winter Recreation

Ice fishing can be a fun way to break up those cold winter days and enjoy a taste of nature.
Eskimos do it. So do polar bears and seals. People in Norway, Sweden, New York and Minnesota do it too. What is it? It's ice fishing! Wherever there's a lake with ice thick enough to walk on, you will find people ice fishing. This charming sport has entertained fishermen in the 'off' season for ages. Putting on layers of warm, dry clothes, you can't help but feel a part of the long line of ice fishers before you.

So you think you can plod out onto the ice, drop a line and start hauling in the fish? Think again. There are many small details involved in ice fishing that the novice might not have thought about. There is so much more to this sport than waiting and trying to keep warm until 'the big one' tugs on your line! There are a few steps in the process, from the moment you make the hole in the ice to the moment you release the fish from your hook. Your goal is to have a successful day, not sit out there shivering in the wind because you have nothing better to do.
The first thing you should do when arriving at the lake is to make sure it is completely frozen over and thick enough to withstand the weight of you and your equipment. The next step is to begin drilling. The pros say that you should drill your holes first because the noise of the drill can frighten the fish temporarily. If you drill early the fish should have returned by the time you are ready to drop a line. It is smart to drill at least ten feet from shore. Begin by drilling a number of holes in a line and repeat, making several lines.

Once your holes are drilled and structure is set, it is time to start fishing! For beginners there are two different approaches to take when ice fishing, active or passive. When most think of ice fishing they imagine the passive method, where you set a few lines and relax, trying to stay warm while you take part in something else like cooking or listening to the game. On the other hand the active approach, as the name implies, is well, active. It is considered active because you fish by jigging by hand or with a wind-operated tip-up.

Using a set line is the most common way to ice fish. A set line will usually be rigged with a single small wire hook tied to the end and a split shot attached six to eighteen inches up the line. After hooking a minnow to the end the line is lowered to near the bottom or in the optimal strike zone. You may also use bear paws to add dropper lines to your main line. A dropper line makes it easy to fish at multiple depths with one line. Once the lines are set all that is left to do is sat back and enjoy the winter weather while you wait.

You've caught the fish, now what? When bringing in the line by hand, you have got to make sure the line doesn't go slack. As you are pulling with one hand, grasp the line with the other before letting your first hand go. You are going to also have to judge quickly how green the fish is before it reaches the surface. If it's too active, the fish will be harder to bring up through the hole, and you will run the risk of losing what you have worked so hard to catch. Once you do have the head through the hole, the fish is all yours. Now that you have the basics, what are you waiting for? Get out on the ice and start fishing!

John Packer is an avid fisherman and recommends GoFishin.com for all your fishing tackle needs based on their wide selection, super discount prices, and great service. Sign up for the newsletter and get weekly specials on fishing poles and various fishing equipment to fill up your tackle box and have the right equipment to catch more fish.
By rob tendick
Published: 1/24/2007

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Quality tip-ups are necessary for Ice fishing success

When ice fishing you need the right equipment, especially the right tip-up.
Fishing on the ice can be pleasant and rewarding with the right equipment. Using the right ice auger, fishing pole, tip-up, line, reel, and wearing the proper clothing is all part of ice fishing success. Let’s face it, if are not comfortable, you will not enjoy the ice fishing experience. If you don’t have the proper equipment, or good working equipment, you may not have success or very much fun!

The Tip-Up is necessary in my mind because it allows you to fish in numerous spots all at the same time. I start with three holes in the ice and three tip-ups all positioned about 30 to 40 feet or more from each other so you are fishing different areas of the lake at one time rather than sitting at one spot with a fishing pole. I like to sit in one spot jigging with a fishing pole while keeping an eye out for all the tip-ups, so I’m actually fishing 4 spots all at the same time, increasing my chances of catching fish greatly. Be careful not to place the tip-ups to far away from where you are going to be. You need to make sure you are able to get there quick enough when you get a bite.

As far as tip-ups go, use good quality equipment because you don’t want problems out on the ice after going through all the trouble of drilling holes and getting your gear all together not to mention the walk to your favorite spots. I use the Beaver Dam tip-up from the Arctic Fisherman. This tip-up has been around for more than 60 years! Its quality is second to none. I have discovered that fisherman and women who buy a Beaver Dam tip-up are educated about the sport of ice fishing and aware of its quality craftsmanship, traditions, and fish catching ability. Unlike most other tip-ups the Beaver Dam tip-up is totally repairable if something does go wrong with it. Everything is repairable on the Beaver Dam Tip-up. The Arctic Fisherman company, who makes the tip-up re-grease about 1,000 tip-ups per season with a freeze proof lubricant that is still a family secret to this day. This lubricant works better than anything else on the market.

The Beaver Dam tip up is a solid brass, flag-holding, spin-trigger that is tapered on one end to release the flag rod after the lightest of bites, which means you want to make sure you are not to far away so you can set the hook quickly. Plus it also features anti-wind slots for breezy conditions, and to slow down the action for heavier strikes. The spin trigger rod is supported by an aluminum bearing and a seamless steel tube filled with freeze-proof lubricant. The underwater mechanism consists of a snag-proof free running spool topped by a heavy duty solid brass line guide designed to eliminate drag by swinging into the direction of the strike and yet heavy enough to prevent unwinding by the live bait.

This may sound like an endorsement of this product because it is. This is the best quality tip-up on the market and with factory support! Go Ice Fishing and take a child with you. Here is a DNR website that gives you a list of everything you need to go ice fishing.

http://www.dnr.state.wi.us/org/caer/ce/eek/nature/icefish.htm

Jeff Bausch has been fishing for over 40 years. He started a lake map business with the best fishing spots marked plus a fishing newspaper many years ago. Fishing has always been a passion, now he is sharing his fishing knowledge about how to use lake maps and how to fish any lake with great success.

Fishing Tackle Supply store with all your fishing needs.
Ice fishing Tip-ups

Ice fishing gear and tip ups
By Jeff Bausch
Published: 10/1/2007

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A Guide to Ice Fishing

As winter approaches, some fishermen might be lamenting the end of another season of fishing. Not so for the folks who live in areas where the ice fishing season is on the way. This sport definitely has its charms, and the thought of conquering the elements as you slip into your many layers of warm, dry clothing might make you feel as though you are playing the part of some seasoned fisherman from long ago.

Ice fishing is more than just finding a spot on the ice to dig a hole and drop your line through. It's not as easy as it looks. But what can be so difficult about sitting on the ice waiting for the fish to bite? There is more to ice fishing than simply staying warm. There is a lot of hard work that goes into having a successful day out on the ice - after all, it is called ice fishing for a reason! If you don't catch any fish, what's the point? Everything from making the hole to releasing the fish and all the little things in between require attention to make your day worthwhile.

Once you have arrived at the lake, it is a good idea to make a pattern of the holes that you want to drill. Generally, the experts say to start your first hole about 10 feet from the shore. You should then drill about four to eight holes in a line. You may want to drill several lines of holes that create a grid or fan shape in order to thoroughly cover the structure on which you are working. Be sure to do all of your drilling when you first arrive. As you might imagine, fish are frightened by the noisy drill. Do the drilling once, and they will return to the spot before you know it.

There are two basic approaches to ice fishing. There is the active and the passive approach. The active approach is jigging (done by hand or with a wind-operated tip-up), while the passive approach is done by using a set line. Most ice fishing is accomplished using set lines. A set line is exactly what it sounds like. It is a line sitting still with a minnow on the end waiting for a bite. If you use this method, you are able to fish more than one hole at the same time, as well as do other things, such as cook or make a fire.

A set line will usually be rigged with a single small wire hook tied to the end and a split shot attached six to eighteen inches up the line. A minnow is hooked and the line is sent to within inches of the bottom or into the strike zone. You may also use bear paws to add dropper lines to your main line. This lets you fish at multiple depths. Once you've put the lines down the hole, all have to do is wait for a hit to set off a flag.

When bringing the fishing line in by hand, it is vitally important not to give any slack. To prevent this, grab hold of the line at the surface of the ice with your free hand. Start pulling before your occupied hand is extended as far up as it will go. When the fish is still a few feet below the surface, judge how green the fish still is. If the fish is still very active, it may be harder to get the fish's head through the hole. It is wise to decide before the fish gets to the ice whether or not you are going to attempt to bring the fish through. Once you've got a fish that far, he's all yours. Now that you are familiar with the basics of ice fishing, dress warm, be safe, and go find yourself a frozen lake with lots of fish.

By Konstantin Volegna
Published: 5/13/2007

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Ice Fishing Basics

Ice fishing basics from where to fish, locating fish, ice fishing equipment to dressing for ice fishing.
First and formost an ice fisherman needs the location of good lakes for ice fishing. Usually a lake that produces lots of fish in the summer fishin season will also produce numerous fish in the winter.

Many factors in a lake in winter affect fish life, changing their reactions, their feeding habits, and even their survival rate. For instance a heavy layer of snow over the ice will cut down on the amount of light that filters into the water, reducing weed growth and oxygen production. This will result in the fish becoming lethargic, interested in only conserving their energy to survive rather than wasting energy to feed and move around.

Lakes that are weed choked in the summer is usually is shallow and contains very few deep pools or spots that contain oygen rich pockets for fish to congregate, and may not be able to sustain a large fish population in the winter months. Lakes that produce great numbers of fish in summer are likely to congregate in these poolos and use up the oxygen and they will not all survive.

Fish die off in the winter does not mean that severe oxygen depletion has occured throughout the whole lake; certain areas will still produce good ice fishing results. Consider all factors when choosing a lake for ice fishing.

ICE FISHING SPOTS

For new folks ice fishing the best spot to start is to go where the crowds or people are before you start to experiment. The ice fish crowd loves to socialise while fishing as it ads to the enjoyment. The willingness to share good fishing spots with others is and advntage to the newcomer to ice fishing. No one minds if a few more holes are cut and some more fish taken. Most other anglers will be more than willing to discuss their success and the bait or lures that have been most successful.

Most successful fishermen do not mind sharing their secrets and many oldtimers derive great satisfaction helping a newcomer to ice fishing the advantages of his years of experience. You will some exceptions to this but do not be afraid to ask and let someone know you are new to ice fishing.

LOCATING FISH

Finding the location of fish is frustrating at times. Remember fish in the winter act different than in the summer months. The only requirement for a fish in winter is to eat enough to survive. They generally feed only part of the day to not waste a lot of their energy. The competition for food seems to be the key to fish feeding habits while ice fishing. Many ice fiashermen do not consider all the noise of cutting holes setting up huts will affect the fish. After you settle down to fishing and stop all noisey movement the fish will come back and be more active.

ICE FISHING EQUIPMENT

It is not all that expensive to get started ice fishing ( but you can get expensive if you wish). When you decide how much of your time will be spent ice fishing then go from there.

For the weekend ice fishing angler I would suggest a standard ice fishing rod, which can be purchased at any sorting goods store. The rod is seldom more than a fiberglass rod about two feet long with two line guides and a small take up reel. The line can be from 2 to 6 pound test monofilament. Bobbers are a handy thing for ice fishing so keep a couple in your pack. You will also need a variety of lures, hooks, sinkers, swivels and other basic fishing tackle. Also a chisel, ice spud or ice auger for your ice fishing holes. Hit your local bait store before you leave to pick any live bait needed for the species and lake you intend to fish.

Don't overdo it on your first ice fishing trip out onto the lake. Go out early in the morning and fish till noon, and call it a day. If the fish are biting you should have caught your share by then. If the fish don't bite worry not you will have learnt to use the new equipment. The next trip out you will be even more eqipped and ready for all the fish you will catch.

DRESSING FOR ICE FISHING

Dressing comfortably for ice fishing presents some problems that do not confront other outdoor winter activities. The chief concern is to stay warm at all times, but ice fishing by nature involves extremes of activity that will cause you to perspire if you are dressed to warmly, and then freeze when you sit too long. You may work up a swet just getting there and setting up to start fishing. Then sitting for a long time once fishing then you are cold. The secret is to dress warmly for travel and have more to put on for the periods of inactivity. A good snowmobile outfit covers all the needs of most ice fishermen. Remember layers under the parka, you can always take it off if you are too warm. Get out ther and enjoy, catch some fish and you will become and addict of fishing in all seasons.

Jack Phillips has been an avid Canadian angler for over 50 years. Fishing Canada provides solid advice for walleye, pike, muskie, a variety of trout, arctic char bass and more. Ideas on when and where to go on your next trip to Canada. Ice fishing tips. Delicious fish recipes also!
By Jack Phillips
Published: 2/2/2007

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